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Aceh is the northern province of Sumatra, from Lake Toba to the Malacca Strait. A jungle spine runs up the middle, falling away to reef-fringed bays on either side. The West coast is lightly settled by fishing people and there are tigers and orangutans living in the jungle. The capital, Banda Aceh, used to be the biggest sea port in the region, and it was only when steam gave way to diesel that Singapore took its place. The province is fundamental Muslim, especially Banda Aceh where a superb mosque was built by the Dutch to replace the one they destroyed. Sumatra has been at odds with Java for a thousand years and the present secessionist strife is no exception. It is nevertheless probably safer than many other parts of the world. |
